Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver celebrated a glorious decade as the storied Parisian house’s menswear designer in a highly-anticipated show that saw the Palais de Tokyo venue bursting at the seams Sunday with guests.Here are some highlights of the final day of spring-summer 2017 menswear collections in Paris.
OSSENDRIJVER’S 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY
Since Dutch-born Ossendrijver was tapped to revitalize the floundering Lanvin menswear line 10 years ago, he changed the face of the house.The designer, who cut his cloth at Kenzo and then Dior Homme, successfully modernized the men’s line founded by Jeanne Lanvin in the 1920’s with his signature layering, eclectic style fusion and fashion-forward approach.Ossendrijver even made style history in 2006 by creating the first high-fashion urban leather sneakers, which have now become an iconic style item.
“This collection is not about a single concept but rather a collage made up of different possibilities,” Ossendrijver explained.One leitmotif was the colorful variations on the Breton stripe, which had its heyday in the 60’s. Stripes in caramel, white, gray, blue and red graced shirts and vests with great optical kinesis.Demonstrating Ossendrijver’s eye for detail, the 60’s theme carried through in long narrow scarves, rainbow stripes, big gray check suits and funky flat, round-toed pumps with color-contrasted laces that were all the rage in that era.
These ’60s fashions were mixed with exaggerated ’80s layering that defined the collection silhouette and in recent years has become a touchstone of Ossendrijver’s aesthetic. A billowing, oversize coat, for instance, perfectly captured that period’s exuberance.Other looks riffed off contemporary color-blocking styles, making for a rich collection befitting a career milestone.
London in the ’70s was in vogue for British designer Paul Smith, who produced a typically splashy collection.Exaggerated retro shoulders defined the silhouette of myriad suit jackets and shirts — in checks or monochrome — that were twinned with the famed high-waisted pants.Many of the looks borrowed from large “Saturday Night Fever”-era shirt collars, fusing them with the more colorful, checked and striped London styles of the time.Smith’s signature touch is, of course, color — and no hue was left behind. Royal blue, Cerulean, lime yellow and wild grass strongly contrasted with vermillion and titanium yellow in the runway designs.